I visited this city as a little girl, often, and so to visit it as a woman of twenty-three years – to be able to point out the cobbled street where I lived when I was twenty and to recognise familiar faces in cafes, on the street – is the most wondrous feeling. The air was close and I spent the weekend in a haze of heat and sunshine, the sky so bright I could feel freckles forming on my arms. I drank my weight in Apfelschorle, stalked my old neighbours, rode the ferris wheel and munched on Schoko-Erdbeeren with Carolin, reminisced with Andreas, hiked through Kallmünz with Rudi and Christl, sat in our old seats at Cafe Lila with Julia, ate cake for lunch and Waldbeertorte (foresty fruity tart) for tea, accompanied friends to the European election, cycled furiously down the Regenradweg on my old blue bicycle (out of storage, for one weekend only!) and gazed in awe at the various beauties enshrined in this small city and its environs. To return to somewhere you have said goodbye to – to a place you have lived, and loved, and left – is so often bittersweet, but it remains a testament to Regensburg and to the exquisite year I spent there, the people I grew to love, that I felt only pure unbridled happiness last weekend. To Regensburg!