Autumn has come to Regensburg and with it the infamous Nebel, which unfolds to reveal the most glorious sunrises I have ever seen. A wonderfully musty smell haunts the air – old leaves mixed with the baking of bread – and everywhere the sound of bicycles treading through wet gravel, the clinking of boat chains, children playing, the last hurrah before winter’s harsh arrival. Herbal tea at pavement cafes, the loud voice of a kind professor, new German words, everywhere falling leaves of amber, auburn, burgundy. Shortbread baking and Kaffee trinken gehen happened. Kaffee and Kuchen at Eloise’s. A hilarious cinema trip. I lost my shoe cycling down the busiest street in Regensburg, continue to be mistaken for a boy in writing (apparently here Louise is not a girl’s name…), taught my first classes completely alone, made new friends, visited older ones in a tiny Franconian town. This evening Zachary and I ended up sitting outside on Haidplatz and cycling through Oberer Woehrd by the river, under the majestic stone bridge and past the most magical place in Regensburg – a traditional biergarten with coloured lights strung through the trees, overlooking the water.

Thank you autumn; you’re being extra nice to me this year!